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A Brief Review of Side Bends: Application, Rationale, Accidents and Testing

Yıl 2020, Cilt: 3 Sayı: 2, 38 - 52, 30.12.2020

Robert Charles Chısnall

https://doi.org/10.36415/dagcilik.831394

Öz

When climbers descend from long routes, they sometimes need to join two ropes together. This is necessary in order to rappel a full rope length to the next anchor because the ropes are doubled up and looped through the anchor point. Troubles can arise when a climber attempts to pull one line in order to retrieve both ropes to prepare for the next rappel. The knot joining the two ropes could get snagged as it drags against the rock, over edges, into cracks and behind flakes (Baillie, ND-no date provided; Gommers, 2019; Kemple, 2006). A jammed knot might result in entrapment, preventing climbers from descending any farther unless they implement effective self-rescue strategies (Fasulo, 1996; Tyson & Loomis, 2006). Such events have been regularly observed and reported. Knots traditionally used to join two rappel lines together belong to a class of knots inconsistently called one-sided, offset, side, flat or indirect bends. These are knots that afford less resistance when dragged over rock surfaces owing to their shape and relatively smaller contact footprint. It is purported that they have a lower chance of getting jammed in cracks and behind flakes. Accidents have been linked to side bend failures, making them a topic of contention amongst climbers (AMGA & ACMG, 1999; Baillie, No date provided; Baillie, 1982; Chisnall, 1985, 2020; Evans, 2016; Gaines & Martin, 2014; Geldard, 2016; Gommers, 2019; Jackson, 2016a, 2016b; Helmuth & Burnhardt, 2003; Jones, 2012; Kirkpatrick, 2008; Lottman, 2016; Magnuson, ND; Martin, 2009; Martin, 2011; March 1976; Momsen, 2016; Powick, 2016; Prattley, 2016; Prohaska, 1998; Raleigh, 1998; Needle Sports, 2020; Siacci, 2019). Some side bends are more secure than others, although test data and theoretical modelling are not in agreement. The purpose herein is to critically review available information pertaining to these issues.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Side Bends Rappelling Accidents Test Reliability and Validity

Destekleyen Kurum

None

Proje Numarası

None

Kaynakça

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  • All About Knots. (November 21, 2010). Knot Strength: Structures that Make a Natural-Fiber Knot Strong or Weak. Retrieved from, http://www.allaboutknots.blogspot.com
  • Ashley, C. W. (1944). The Ashley book of knots. New York, NY: Doubleday & Company, Inc.
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  • Baillie, R. (1982). Forces Generated in a Rappel. Explore Magazine Technical Series, 13.
  • Bao, X. R., Lee, H. J., & Quake, S. R. (2003). Behavior of complex knots in single DNA molecules. Physical Review Letters, 91, 265506. https://doi.org10.1103/PhysRevLett.91.265506
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  • Borwick, G. R. (1973). Mountaineering ropes. Alpine Journal, 1973, 62-70.
  • Budworth, G. (1983). The knot book. Kingswood, Surrey, United Kingdom: Elliot Right Way Books.
  • Chamarro, A., & Fernández-Castro, J. (2009). The perception of causes of accidents in mountain sports: A study based on the experiences of victims. Accident Analysis & Prevention, 41 (1), 197-201. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.aap.2008.10.012
  • Chisnall, R. (1985). The ORCA rock climbing safety manual, (2nd ed.). Toronto, ON: Ontario Rock Climbing Association, Ministry of Tourism and Recreation.
  • Chisnall, R. (1995a). A few notes on testing knot strength and security, Part I. Terminology. Knotting Matters, 48, 29-34.
  • Chisnall, R. (1995b). A few notes on testing knot strength and security, Part II. Testing methods. Knotting Matters, 49, 14-8.
  • Chisnall, R. (1995c). A few notes on testing knot strength and security, Part III. A review of some research. Knotting Matters, 51, 40-9.
  • Chisnall, R. (2000). The forensic analysis of knots and ligatures. Salem, OR: Lightning Powder Company, Inc.
  • Chisnall, R. (2010). Knot-tying habits, tier handedness and experience. Journal of Forensic Sciences, 55, 1232-1244., https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1556-4029.2010.01451.x
  • Chisnall, R. (2011). An analysis of more than 100 cases involving knots and ligatures: knot frequencies, consistent tying habits and noteworthy outliers. Australian Journal of Forensic Sciences, 43, 245-262., https://doi.org/10.1080/00450618.2011.561497
  • Chisnall, R. C. (2016a). Analysing knot evidence: associating innate habits with sophisticated tying tasks. Scandinavian Journal of Forensic Science, 22 (2), 21-32., https://doi.org/10.1515/sjfs-2016-0005
  • Chisnall, R. (2016b). Structural recognition and nomenclature standardization in forensic knot analysis. Science and Justice, 56, 282-301., https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scijus.2016.04.002
  • Chisnall, R. (2016c). Categorizing innate tying behaviour and knot sophistication using fundamental principles. Journal of Forensic Identification, 67 (3), 447-472.
  • Chisnall, R. (2020). Analysing knots and ligatures: tying principles, knot characteristics and structural changes. Forensic Science International., https://doi.org/10.1016/j.forsciint.2020.110272
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Düğümlerdeki İp katları ile ilgili Kısa Bir Değerlendirme: Uygulama, Gerekçe, Kazalar ve Test

Yıl 2020, Cilt: 3 Sayı: 2, 38 - 52, 30.12.2020

Robert Charles Chısnall

https://doi.org/10.36415/dagcilik.831394

Öz

Tırmanıcılar uzun rotalardan inerken bazen iki ipi birbirine bağlarlar. İpler ancak düğüm noktasından birleştiğinden ve bu kısımda ipin genişliğinin iki katına çıktığından dolayı bir daha ki bağlantıya kadar düz bir ip boyu inmek haliyle önemlidir. Bir tırmanıcı, bir sonraki ipe hazırlanmak için her iki ipi de çekmeye çalıştığında sorunlar ortaya çıkabilir. İki ipi birleştiren düğüm, sürüklenirken kayaya, kaya kenarlarına, çatlaklara veya tabakaların arasına takılabilir (Baillie, TY-Tarih yok; Gommers, 2019; Kemple, 2006). Sıkışmış bir düğüm, takılmaya yol açabilir ve etkili kendi kendini kurtarma stratejileri uygulamadıkları sürece tırmanıcıların inişe devam etmesini engelleyebilir (Fasulo, 1996; Tyson & Loomis, 2006). Bu tür olaylar düzenli olarak gözlemlenmiş ve rapor edilmiştir. Geleneksel olarak iki ipi birleştirmek için kullanılan düğümler, tutarsız olarak tek taraflı, ofset, yan, düz veya dolaylı kıvrımlar olarak adlandırılan bir düğüm sınıfına aittir. Bunlar, şekilleri ve nispeten daha küçük temaslı taban alanları nedeniyle kaya yüzeyleri üzerinde sürüklendiğinde daha az direnç sağlayan düğümlerdir. Çatlaklarda ve tabakalar arkasında sıkışma ihtimalinin daha düşük olduğu ortaya atılmıştır. Öte yandan, ip katlarındaki arızalarla ilişkilendirilen kazalar bu düğümleri tırmanıcılar arasında bir tartışma konusu haline getirdi (AMGA & ACMG, 1999; Baillie, TY; Baillie, 1982; Chisnall, 1985, 2020; Evans, 2016; Gaines & Martin, 2014; Geldard, 2016; Gommers, 2019; Jackson, 2016a, 2016b; Helmuth &Burnhardt, 2003; Jones, 2012; Kirkpatrick, 2008; Lottman, 2016; Magnuson, TY; Martin, 2009; Martin, 2011; Mart 1976; Momsen, 2016; Powick, 2016; Prattley, 2016; Prohaska, 1998; Raleigh, 1998; Needle Sports, 2020; Siacci, 2019). Her ne kadar test verileri ve teorik modelleme bu konuda uyum göstermese de bazı yan halkalar diğerlerinden daha güvenlidir. Buradaki amaç, bu konularla ilgili mevcut bilgileri eleştirel bir şekilde incelemektir.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Güvenlik Dügümleri Rappelling Kazalari Test Güvenilirligi ve Geçerliligi

Proje Numarası

None

Kaynakça

  • Adams, C. C. (2001). The knot book: An elementary introduction to the mathematical theory of knots. Providence, RI: American Mathematical Society.
  • All About Knots. (November 21, 2010). Knot Strength: Structures that Make a Natural-Fiber Knot Strong or Weak. Retrieved from, http://www.allaboutknots.blogspot.com
  • Ashley, C. W. (1944). The Ashley book of knots. New York, NY: Doubleday & Company, Inc.
  • Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) and the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA). (1999). Technical handbook for mountain guides: Alpine, rock, and ski guiding techniques. Golden: AMGA; Canmore AB: ACMG.
  • Audoly, B., Clauvelin, N., & Neukirch, S. (2007). Elastic knots. Physical Review Letters 99, 164301. https://doi.org/10.1103/PhysRevLett.99.164301
  • Baillie, R. (No date provided). The Side Figure Eight Knot for Rappelling. Explore Magazine Technical Series, 2.
  • Baillie, R. (1982). Forces Generated in a Rappel. Explore Magazine Technical Series, 13.
  • Bao, X. R., Lee, H. J., & Quake, S. R. (2003). Behavior of complex knots in single DNA molecules. Physical Review Letters, 91, 265506. https://doi.org10.1103/PhysRevLett.91.265506
  • Bayman, B. F. (1977). Theory of hitches. American Journal of Physics, 45, 185-90. https://doi.org/10.1119/1.10652
  • Borwick, G. R. (1973). Mountaineering ropes. Alpine Journal, 1973, 62-70.
  • Budworth, G. (1983). The knot book. Kingswood, Surrey, United Kingdom: Elliot Right Way Books.
  • Chamarro, A., & Fernández-Castro, J. (2009). The perception of causes of accidents in mountain sports: A study based on the experiences of victims. Accident Analysis & Prevention, 41 (1), 197-201. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.aap.2008.10.012
  • Chisnall, R. (1985). The ORCA rock climbing safety manual, (2nd ed.). Toronto, ON: Ontario Rock Climbing Association, Ministry of Tourism and Recreation.
  • Chisnall, R. (1995a). A few notes on testing knot strength and security, Part I. Terminology. Knotting Matters, 48, 29-34.
  • Chisnall, R. (1995b). A few notes on testing knot strength and security, Part II. Testing methods. Knotting Matters, 49, 14-8.
  • Chisnall, R. (1995c). A few notes on testing knot strength and security, Part III. A review of some research. Knotting Matters, 51, 40-9.
  • Chisnall, R. (2000). The forensic analysis of knots and ligatures. Salem, OR: Lightning Powder Company, Inc.
  • Chisnall, R. (2010). Knot-tying habits, tier handedness and experience. Journal of Forensic Sciences, 55, 1232-1244., https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1556-4029.2010.01451.x
  • Chisnall, R. (2011). An analysis of more than 100 cases involving knots and ligatures: knot frequencies, consistent tying habits and noteworthy outliers. Australian Journal of Forensic Sciences, 43, 245-262., https://doi.org/10.1080/00450618.2011.561497
  • Chisnall, R. C. (2016a). Analysing knot evidence: associating innate habits with sophisticated tying tasks. Scandinavian Journal of Forensic Science, 22 (2), 21-32., https://doi.org/10.1515/sjfs-2016-0005
  • Chisnall, R. (2016b). Structural recognition and nomenclature standardization in forensic knot analysis. Science and Justice, 56, 282-301., https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scijus.2016.04.002
  • Chisnall, R. (2016c). Categorizing innate tying behaviour and knot sophistication using fundamental principles. Journal of Forensic Identification, 67 (3), 447-472.
  • Chisnall, R. (2020). Analysing knots and ligatures: tying principles, knot characteristics and structural changes. Forensic Science International., https://doi.org/10.1016/j.forsciint.2020.110272
  • Construction Safety Association of Ontario (CSAO). (1975). Rigging manual. Toronto, ON: CSAO.
  • Daily-Diamond, C. A., Gregg, C. E., O’Reilly, O. M. (2017). The roles of impact and inertia in the failure of a shoelace knot. Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 473, 20160770. https://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2016.0770
  • Denscombe, M. (1991). Personal health and the social psychology of risk taking. Health Education Research, 8 (4), 505-517., https://doi.org/10.1093/her/8.4.4505
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  • Microys, H. F. (1977). Climbing ropes. American Alpine Journal, 21, 130-147.
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  • Moyer, T., Tusting, P., & Harmston, C. (2000). Comparative testing of high strength cord. International Technical Rescue Symposium (ITRS). Retrieved July 30, 2020 from https://user.xmission.com/-tmoyer/testing/High_Strength_Cord.pdf
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  • Oreskes, N. (2015). The fact of uncertainty, the uncertainty of facts and the cultural resonance of doubt. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society. A. Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 373 (2055) 20140455., https://doi.org/10.1098/rsta.2014.0455
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  • Prattley, G. (June, 2016). Which bends for joining ropes? Testing and analysis of flat bends used for rope retrieval (Version 2.0). Over The Edge Rescue. Retrieved July 8, 2020 from https://canyonsandcrags.com/pdf/which-bend.pdf
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  • Zartman, B. (2005). Better beta: 5 Tips to get you outta that fix. perfect lead. Rock and Ice, 142, 110.
Toplam 97 adet kaynakça vardır.

Ayrıntılar

Birincil Dil İngilizce
Konular Spor Hekimliği, Alan Eğitimleri
Bölüm Derleme
Yazarlar

Robert Charles Chısnall 0000-0002-8822-8127

Proje Numarası None
Yayımlanma Tarihi 30 Aralık 2020
Gönderilme Tarihi 25 Kasım 2020
Kabul Tarihi 26 Aralık 2020
Yayımlandığı Sayı Yıl 2020Cilt: 3 Sayı: 2

Kaynak Göster

APA Chısnall, R. C. (2020). A Brief Review of Side Bends: Application, Rationale, Accidents and Testing. Uluslararası Dağcılık Ve Tırmanış Dergisi, 3(2), 38-52. https://doi.org/10.36415/dagcilik.831394