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A Brief Review of Side Bends: Application, Rationale, Accidents and Testing

Year 2020, Volume: 3 Issue: 2, 38 - 52, 30.12.2020

Robert Charles Chısnall

https://doi.org/10.36415/dagcilik.831394

Abstract

When climbers descend from long routes, they sometimes need to join two ropes together. This is necessary in order to rappel a full rope length to the next anchor because the ropes are doubled up and looped through the anchor point. Troubles can arise when a climber attempts to pull one line in order to retrieve both ropes to prepare for the next rappel. The knot joining the two ropes could get snagged as it drags against the rock, over edges, into cracks and behind flakes (Baillie, ND-no date provided; Gommers, 2019; Kemple, 2006). A jammed knot might result in entrapment, preventing climbers from descending any farther unless they implement effective self-rescue strategies (Fasulo, 1996; Tyson & Loomis, 2006). Such events have been regularly observed and reported. Knots traditionally used to join two rappel lines together belong to a class of knots inconsistently called one-sided, offset, side, flat or indirect bends. These are knots that afford less resistance when dragged over rock surfaces owing to their shape and relatively smaller contact footprint. It is purported that they have a lower chance of getting jammed in cracks and behind flakes. Accidents have been linked to side bend failures, making them a topic of contention amongst climbers (AMGA & ACMG, 1999; Baillie, No date provided; Baillie, 1982; Chisnall, 1985, 2020; Evans, 2016; Gaines & Martin, 2014; Geldard, 2016; Gommers, 2019; Jackson, 2016a, 2016b; Helmuth & Burnhardt, 2003; Jones, 2012; Kirkpatrick, 2008; Lottman, 2016; Magnuson, ND; Martin, 2009; Martin, 2011; March 1976; Momsen, 2016; Powick, 2016; Prattley, 2016; Prohaska, 1998; Raleigh, 1998; Needle Sports, 2020; Siacci, 2019). Some side bends are more secure than others, although test data and theoretical modelling are not in agreement. The purpose herein is to critically review available information pertaining to these issues.

Keywords

Side Bends Rappelling Accidents Test Reliability and Validity

Supporting Institution

None

Project Number

None

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Düğümlerdeki İp katları ile ilgili Kısa Bir Değerlendirme: Uygulama, Gerekçe, Kazalar ve Test

Year 2020, Volume: 3 Issue: 2, 38 - 52, 30.12.2020

Robert Charles Chısnall

https://doi.org/10.36415/dagcilik.831394

Abstract

Tırmanıcılar uzun rotalardan inerken bazen iki ipi birbirine bağlarlar. İpler ancak düğüm noktasından birleştiğinden ve bu kısımda ipin genişliğinin iki katına çıktığından dolayı bir daha ki bağlantıya kadar düz bir ip boyu inmek haliyle önemlidir. Bir tırmanıcı, bir sonraki ipe hazırlanmak için her iki ipi de çekmeye çalıştığında sorunlar ortaya çıkabilir. İki ipi birleştiren düğüm, sürüklenirken kayaya, kaya kenarlarına, çatlaklara veya tabakaların arasına takılabilir (Baillie, TY-Tarih yok; Gommers, 2019; Kemple, 2006). Sıkışmış bir düğüm, takılmaya yol açabilir ve etkili kendi kendini kurtarma stratejileri uygulamadıkları sürece tırmanıcıların inişe devam etmesini engelleyebilir (Fasulo, 1996; Tyson & Loomis, 2006). Bu tür olaylar düzenli olarak gözlemlenmiş ve rapor edilmiştir. Geleneksel olarak iki ipi birleştirmek için kullanılan düğümler, tutarsız olarak tek taraflı, ofset, yan, düz veya dolaylı kıvrımlar olarak adlandırılan bir düğüm sınıfına aittir. Bunlar, şekilleri ve nispeten daha küçük temaslı taban alanları nedeniyle kaya yüzeyleri üzerinde sürüklendiğinde daha az direnç sağlayan düğümlerdir. Çatlaklarda ve tabakalar arkasında sıkışma ihtimalinin daha düşük olduğu ortaya atılmıştır. Öte yandan, ip katlarındaki arızalarla ilişkilendirilen kazalar bu düğümleri tırmanıcılar arasında bir tartışma konusu haline getirdi (AMGA & ACMG, 1999; Baillie, TY; Baillie, 1982; Chisnall, 1985, 2020; Evans, 2016; Gaines & Martin, 2014; Geldard, 2016; Gommers, 2019; Jackson, 2016a, 2016b; Helmuth &Burnhardt, 2003; Jones, 2012; Kirkpatrick, 2008; Lottman, 2016; Magnuson, TY; Martin, 2009; Martin, 2011; Mart 1976; Momsen, 2016; Powick, 2016; Prattley, 2016; Prohaska, 1998; Raleigh, 1998; Needle Sports, 2020; Siacci, 2019). Her ne kadar test verileri ve teorik modelleme bu konuda uyum göstermese de bazı yan halkalar diğerlerinden daha güvenlidir. Buradaki amaç, bu konularla ilgili mevcut bilgileri eleştirel bir şekilde incelemektir.

Keywords

Güvenlik Dügümleri Rappelling Kazalari Test Güvenilirligi ve Geçerliligi

Project Number

None

References

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  • Ashley, C. W. (1944). The Ashley book of knots. New York, NY: Doubleday & Company, Inc.
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  • Borwick, G. R. (1973). Mountaineering ropes. Alpine Journal, 1973, 62-70.
  • Budworth, G. (1983). The knot book. Kingswood, Surrey, United Kingdom: Elliot Right Way Books.
  • Chamarro, A., & Fernández-Castro, J. (2009). The perception of causes of accidents in mountain sports: A study based on the experiences of victims. Accident Analysis & Prevention, 41 (1), 197-201. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.aap.2008.10.012
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  • Chisnall, R. (1995b). A few notes on testing knot strength and security, Part II. Testing methods. Knotting Matters, 49, 14-8.
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  • Chisnall, R. (2010). Knot-tying habits, tier handedness and experience. Journal of Forensic Sciences, 55, 1232-1244., https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1556-4029.2010.01451.x
  • Chisnall, R. (2011). An analysis of more than 100 cases involving knots and ligatures: knot frequencies, consistent tying habits and noteworthy outliers. Australian Journal of Forensic Sciences, 43, 245-262., https://doi.org/10.1080/00450618.2011.561497
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  • Chisnall, R. (2016b). Structural recognition and nomenclature standardization in forensic knot analysis. Science and Justice, 56, 282-301., https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scijus.2016.04.002
  • Chisnall, R. (2016c). Categorizing innate tying behaviour and knot sophistication using fundamental principles. Journal of Forensic Identification, 67 (3), 447-472.
  • Chisnall, R. (2020). Analysing knots and ligatures: tying principles, knot characteristics and structural changes. Forensic Science International., https://doi.org/10.1016/j.forsciint.2020.110272
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There are 97 citations in total.

Details

Primary Language English
Subjects Sports Medicine, Other Fields of Education
Journal Section Review
Authors

Robert Charles Chısnall 0000-0002-8822-8127

Project Number None
Publication Date December 30, 2020
Submission Date November 25, 2020
Acceptance Date December 26, 2020
Published in Issue Year 2020Volume: 3 Issue: 2

Cite

APA Chısnall, R. C. (2020). A Brief Review of Side Bends: Application, Rationale, Accidents and Testing. Uluslararası Dağcılık Ve Tırmanış Dergisi, 3(2), 38-52. https://doi.org/10.36415/dagcilik.831394