Review
A Theoretical Analysis of Top-rope Climbing Anchors Focusing on Redundancy and Relative Failure Potential
Abstract
With regard to top-rope setups using bolts, two versions of the cordelette, three versions of the quad, and a basic two-sling anchor setup are evaluated using a combinatoric analysis of component redundancy and failure potential. The two-sling setup offers complete active redundancy because each component is duplicated. Two loop knots are required to set up the quad and those knots have no backup. Similarly, the loop knot employed to create the cordelette’s master point of attachment is not redundant. Slings and cords utilized in top-rope anchors can be vulnerable to abrasion damage if the load shifts laterally during falls and lowers. Knots may be particularly susceptible to wear. The bulk and structure of anchoring knots are likely co-determinants of rock chafing and potential system failure. The characteristics of single and double versions of four loop knots are reviewed. Other setup characteristics and contextual factors are considered in this comparison.
References
- Adams, C.C. (2011). The knot book. Providence, Rhode Island: American Mathematical Society.
- Bedogni, V., Bressan, G., Melchiorri, C., & Zanantoni, C. (2015). Stances in mountaineering and climbing activities: an analysis and a proposal for an improved equalized anchoring. Sports Engineering, 18(4), 203-215. https://doi.org/10.1007/S12283-015-0177-3.
- Ben Abdessalem, S., Debbabi, F., Jedda, H., Elmarzougui, S., & Mokhtar, S. (2009). Tensile and knot performance of polyester braided sutures. Textile Research Journal, 79(3), 247-252. https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517508094090.
- Beverly, J.M., & Attaway, S.W. (No date cited). Measurement of dynamic rope system stiffness in a sequential failure for lead climbing falls. Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium (ITRS).
- Beverly, J.M., Attaway, S., Scherzinger, B., Wilson, S., Modisette, D., & Miller. M. (2005). Multi-point pre-equalized anchoring systems. Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium (ITRS).
- Bowern, C. (2015). Linguistics: Evolution and language change. Current Biology, 25(1), R41-R43. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cub.2014.11.053.
- Brown, M.G. (2000). Engineering practical rope rescue systems. Delmar, Thomson Learning™ Chisnall, R., (Ed.). (1985). The O.R.C.A. rock climbing safety manual, Ontario: The Ontario Rock Climbing Association, Ministry of Tourism and Recreation.
- Chisnall R.C. (2016a). Structural recognition and nomenclature standardization in forensic knot analysis. Science & Justice, 56(4), 282-301. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scijus.2016.04.002.
- Chisnall, R.C. (2020). Analysing knots and ligatures: Tying principles, knot characteristics and structural changes. Forensic Science International, 313, 110272. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.forsciint.2020.110272.
- Chisnall, R.C. (2023). Rappel or lower? A brief comparative analysis of techniques for clearing anchors and descending from one-pitch sport climbs. International J. of Mountaineering and Climbing, 6(2), 69-84. https://doi:10.36415/dagcilik.1392790.
- Datta Roy, M., Ghosh, S., Yadav, A., & Datta Roy, S. (2019). Effect of coefficient of friction and bending rigidity on handling behaviour of surgical suture. Journal of The Institution of Engineers (India): Series E, 100, 131-137. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s40034-019-00146-0.
- Debruin, D. (2019). Comparison of fixed length and sliding anchor rigging for recreational climbing systems. https://staff.weber.edu/derekdebruin/research/extension.pdf.
- Debruin., D. (2021). The quad is awesome/terrible: Examining the applicability of sliding anchor rigging methods. https://staff.weber.edu/derekdebruin/fixedpointbelay/The%20Quad.pdf.
- Evans, T. A. (2016). Review of knot strength testing. Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium (ITRS). https://itrsonline.org/papers/tproduct/294801796-602585688271-a-review-of-kno t-strength-testing.
- European Standard EN892, October 1996. Ref. No. EN 892 : 1996 E (British Standard BS EN 892: 1997), Mountaineering equipment – Dynamic mountaineering ropes – Safety requirements and test methods.
- Fang, Z. X., & Fan, H. T. (2011). Redundancy of structural systems in the context of structural safety. Procedia engineering, 14, 2172-2178. https://doi:10.1016/j.proeng.2011.07.273.
- Flory, J., Hearle, J., McKenna, H., & Parsey, M. (2015). About 75 years of synthetic fiber rope history. OCEANS 2015 - MTS/IEEE Washington. https://doi:10:10.23919/OCEANS.2015.7404500.
- Freund, J.E. (1971). Mathematical statistics. Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, Inc. Gibbs, M. (2012). Tying it all together: Considerations for equalizing multi-point anchor systems. Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium (ITRS). http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/o3/Gibbs.Paper.2012.pdf.
- Jenks, R. (2020). Climbing anchor shock loads are a myth: Human testing in Yosemite. https://youtube/nr3YBDnO19Q.
- Kim, H. (2023). Markov-based reliability model for a mixed redundant system and parallel genetic algorithm with knowledge archives for a redundancy allocation problem. Reliability Engineering & System Safety, 240, 109585. https://goi.org/10.1016/j.ress.2023.109585.
- Law, M., & Hawkshaw, S. (2012). Examination of a rock-climbing fatality caused by equipment failure. Engineering Failure Analysis, 22, 21-27.
- Long, J. (1993). Climbing anchors. Evergreen, Colorado: Chockstone Press.
- Long, J. & Gaines, B. (1996). More climbing anchors. Evergreen, Colorado: Chockstone Press. McKenna, H.A.,
- Hearle, J.W., & O’Hear, N. (2004). Handbook of fibre rope technology (Vol. 34) Woodland Publishing.
- Nesgaard, C., & Andersen, M. A. (2004). Efficiency improvement in redundant power systems by means of thermal load sharing. Nineteenth Annual IEEE Applied Power Electronics Conference and Exposition, 2004. APEC'04. (Vol. 1, pp. 433-439). IEEE.
- Owen, R., & Naguran, S. (2004). Self-equalizing anchors: a myth? A comparison of the load-distributing properties of symmetrical 2-limb self-equalising and non-self-equalising rope rescue anchor systems. Technical Rescue Magazine, 46-47.
- Patil,V.P., Sandt, J.D., Kolle, M., & J. Dunkel (2020). Topological mechanics of knots and tangles, Science 367 (2020) 71–75. http://dx.doi.org/10.1126/science.aaz0135.
- Peiravi, A., Ardakan, M.A., & Zio, E. (2020). A new Markov-based model for reliability optimization problems with mixed redundancy strategy. Reliability Engineering & System Safety, 201: 106987. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ress.2020.106987.
- Pieranski, P., Kasas, S., Dietler, G., Dubocher, J., & Stasiak, A. (2010). Localization of breakage points in knotted strings, New J. Physics 3. https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1367-2630/3/1/310/meta.
- Pierre (2012). 2. Active or passive redundancy. Broadcast-IT.com http://broadcast-it.com/e107 plugins/content/content.php?content.28. 13 February 2012.
- Šimon, J. and Ftorek, B. (2022). Basic statistical properties of the knot efficiency. Symmetry, 14(1929). https://doi.org/10.3390/sym14091926.
- Smith, B. & Padgett, A. (1996). On rope: North American vertical rope techniques, New Revised Edition. Huntsville, Alabama: National Speleological Society. Inc.
- Steels, L. (2017). Human language is a culturally evolving system. Psychonomic Bulletin & Review, 24, 190–193, https://doi.org/10.3758/s13423-016-1086-6.
- Stewart-Patterson, I. (2018). Summer mountain leader field handbook. Canmore, Alberta: The Alpine Club of Canada.
- UIAA - Petzl Foundation. (2013). Alpine skills: Summer. Canada: McCallum Printing Group Inc.
- Vogwell, J. & Minguez, J.M. (2007). The safety of rock climbing protection devices under falling loads. Engineering Failure Analysis, 14(6): 1,114-1,1123. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.engfailanal.2006.11.072.
- Wilson, R. (2016). Combinatorics: A very short introduction. Great Britain: Oxford University Press.
Top-rope Tirmanma Çapalarinin Teorik Analizi Yedeklilik Ve Göreceli Basarisizlik Potansiyeline Odaklanma
Abstract
Civata kullanan üst halat kurulumlari ile ilgili olarak, kordeletin iki versiyonu, dörtlünün üç versiyonu ve temel iki askili ankraj kurulumu, bilesen fazlaligi ve ariza potansiyelinin birlestirici bir analizi kullanilarak degerlendirilir. Iki askili kurulum, her bilesen kopyalandigi için tam aktif yedeklilik sunar. Dörtlüyü kurmak için iki ilmek dügümü gereklidir ve bu dügümlerin yedegi yoktur. Benzer sekilde, kordelette'in ana baglanti noktasini olusturmak için kullanilan ilmek dügümü gereksiz degildir. Üst halat ankrajlarinda kullanilan sapanlar ve kordonlar, düsme ve alçalma sirasinda yükün yanal olarak kaymasi durumunda asinma hasarina karsi savunmasiz olabilir. Dügümler asinmaya özellikle duyarli olabilir. Ankraj dügümlerinin kütlesi ve yapisi, muhtemelen kaya sürtünmesinin ve potansiyel sistem arizasinin ortak belirleyicileridir. Dört ilmek dügümlerinin tek ve çift versiyonlarinin özellikleri gözden geçirilmistir. Bu karsilastirmada diger kurulum özellikleri ve baglamsal faktörler dikkate alinir.
References
- Adams, C.C. (2011). The knot book. Providence, Rhode Island: American Mathematical Society.
- Bedogni, V., Bressan, G., Melchiorri, C., & Zanantoni, C. (2015). Stances in mountaineering and climbing activities: an analysis and a proposal for an improved equalized anchoring. Sports Engineering, 18(4), 203-215. https://doi.org/10.1007/S12283-015-0177-3.
- Ben Abdessalem, S., Debbabi, F., Jedda, H., Elmarzougui, S., & Mokhtar, S. (2009). Tensile and knot performance of polyester braided sutures. Textile Research Journal, 79(3), 247-252. https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517508094090.
- Beverly, J.M., & Attaway, S.W. (No date cited). Measurement of dynamic rope system stiffness in a sequential failure for lead climbing falls. Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium (ITRS).
- Beverly, J.M., Attaway, S., Scherzinger, B., Wilson, S., Modisette, D., & Miller. M. (2005). Multi-point pre-equalized anchoring systems. Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium (ITRS).
- Bowern, C. (2015). Linguistics: Evolution and language change. Current Biology, 25(1), R41-R43. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cub.2014.11.053.
- Brown, M.G. (2000). Engineering practical rope rescue systems. Delmar, Thomson Learning™ Chisnall, R., (Ed.). (1985). The O.R.C.A. rock climbing safety manual, Ontario: The Ontario Rock Climbing Association, Ministry of Tourism and Recreation.
- Chisnall R.C. (2016a). Structural recognition and nomenclature standardization in forensic knot analysis. Science & Justice, 56(4), 282-301. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scijus.2016.04.002.
- Chisnall, R.C. (2020). Analysing knots and ligatures: Tying principles, knot characteristics and structural changes. Forensic Science International, 313, 110272. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.forsciint.2020.110272.
- Chisnall, R.C. (2023). Rappel or lower? A brief comparative analysis of techniques for clearing anchors and descending from one-pitch sport climbs. International J. of Mountaineering and Climbing, 6(2), 69-84. https://doi:10.36415/dagcilik.1392790.
- Datta Roy, M., Ghosh, S., Yadav, A., & Datta Roy, S. (2019). Effect of coefficient of friction and bending rigidity on handling behaviour of surgical suture. Journal of The Institution of Engineers (India): Series E, 100, 131-137. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s40034-019-00146-0.
- Debruin, D. (2019). Comparison of fixed length and sliding anchor rigging for recreational climbing systems. https://staff.weber.edu/derekdebruin/research/extension.pdf.
- Debruin., D. (2021). The quad is awesome/terrible: Examining the applicability of sliding anchor rigging methods. https://staff.weber.edu/derekdebruin/fixedpointbelay/The%20Quad.pdf.
- Evans, T. A. (2016). Review of knot strength testing. Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium (ITRS). https://itrsonline.org/papers/tproduct/294801796-602585688271-a-review-of-kno t-strength-testing.
- European Standard EN892, October 1996. Ref. No. EN 892 : 1996 E (British Standard BS EN 892: 1997), Mountaineering equipment – Dynamic mountaineering ropes – Safety requirements and test methods.
- Fang, Z. X., & Fan, H. T. (2011). Redundancy of structural systems in the context of structural safety. Procedia engineering, 14, 2172-2178. https://doi:10.1016/j.proeng.2011.07.273.
- Flory, J., Hearle, J., McKenna, H., & Parsey, M. (2015). About 75 years of synthetic fiber rope history. OCEANS 2015 - MTS/IEEE Washington. https://doi:10:10.23919/OCEANS.2015.7404500.
- Freund, J.E. (1971). Mathematical statistics. Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, Inc. Gibbs, M. (2012). Tying it all together: Considerations for equalizing multi-point anchor systems. Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium (ITRS). http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/o3/Gibbs.Paper.2012.pdf.
- Jenks, R. (2020). Climbing anchor shock loads are a myth: Human testing in Yosemite. https://youtube/nr3YBDnO19Q.
- Kim, H. (2023). Markov-based reliability model for a mixed redundant system and parallel genetic algorithm with knowledge archives for a redundancy allocation problem. Reliability Engineering & System Safety, 240, 109585. https://goi.org/10.1016/j.ress.2023.109585.
- Law, M., & Hawkshaw, S. (2012). Examination of a rock-climbing fatality caused by equipment failure. Engineering Failure Analysis, 22, 21-27.
- Long, J. (1993). Climbing anchors. Evergreen, Colorado: Chockstone Press.
- Long, J. & Gaines, B. (1996). More climbing anchors. Evergreen, Colorado: Chockstone Press. McKenna, H.A.,
- Hearle, J.W., & O’Hear, N. (2004). Handbook of fibre rope technology (Vol. 34) Woodland Publishing.
- Nesgaard, C., & Andersen, M. A. (2004). Efficiency improvement in redundant power systems by means of thermal load sharing. Nineteenth Annual IEEE Applied Power Electronics Conference and Exposition, 2004. APEC'04. (Vol. 1, pp. 433-439). IEEE.
- Owen, R., & Naguran, S. (2004). Self-equalizing anchors: a myth? A comparison of the load-distributing properties of symmetrical 2-limb self-equalising and non-self-equalising rope rescue anchor systems. Technical Rescue Magazine, 46-47.
- Patil,V.P., Sandt, J.D., Kolle, M., & J. Dunkel (2020). Topological mechanics of knots and tangles, Science 367 (2020) 71–75. http://dx.doi.org/10.1126/science.aaz0135.
- Peiravi, A., Ardakan, M.A., & Zio, E. (2020). A new Markov-based model for reliability optimization problems with mixed redundancy strategy. Reliability Engineering & System Safety, 201: 106987. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ress.2020.106987.
- Pieranski, P., Kasas, S., Dietler, G., Dubocher, J., & Stasiak, A. (2010). Localization of breakage points in knotted strings, New J. Physics 3. https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1367-2630/3/1/310/meta.
- Pierre (2012). 2. Active or passive redundancy. Broadcast-IT.com http://broadcast-it.com/e107 plugins/content/content.php?content.28. 13 February 2012.
- Šimon, J. and Ftorek, B. (2022). Basic statistical properties of the knot efficiency. Symmetry, 14(1929). https://doi.org/10.3390/sym14091926.
- Smith, B. & Padgett, A. (1996). On rope: North American vertical rope techniques, New Revised Edition. Huntsville, Alabama: National Speleological Society. Inc.
- Steels, L. (2017). Human language is a culturally evolving system. Psychonomic Bulletin & Review, 24, 190–193, https://doi.org/10.3758/s13423-016-1086-6.
- Stewart-Patterson, I. (2018). Summer mountain leader field handbook. Canmore, Alberta: The Alpine Club of Canada.
- UIAA - Petzl Foundation. (2013). Alpine skills: Summer. Canada: McCallum Printing Group Inc.
- Vogwell, J. & Minguez, J.M. (2007). The safety of rock climbing protection devices under falling loads. Engineering Failure Analysis, 14(6): 1,114-1,1123. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.engfailanal.2006.11.072.
- Wilson, R. (2016). Combinatorics: A very short introduction. Great Britain: Oxford University Press.
There are 37 citations in total.
Details
| Primary Language | English |
|---|---|
| Subjects | Sports and Recreation |
| Journal Section | Review |
| Authors | |
| Publication Date | July 3, 2024 |
| Submission Date | January 12, 2024 |
| Acceptance Date | March 23, 2024 |
| Published in Issue | Year 2024 |